goa.wiki — a local's guide to slowing down in goa

Susegad Classics

the institutions. eating here is the point.

Ritz Classic4.2

Fish thali institution · Panjim

the panjim fish thali. the lunch queue is part of it.

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Anandashram4.1

Fish curry rice · Fontainhas

fish curry rice in a room the size of a kitchen. no menu needed.

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Café Bhonsle4.2

Breakfast counter · Panjim

bhaji puri and chai. panjim's morning ritual.

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Martin's Corner4.4

Old-school restaurant · Betalbatim

the south goa institution. crab xec xec, live music, everyone's uncle.

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Longuinhos3.9

Old-school restaurant · Margao

since 1950. prawn patties and old margao afternoons.

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Souza Lobo4.2

Beachside institution · Calangute

since 1932. the one reason to go to calangute.

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George Bar & Restaurant4.1

Goan restaurant · Panjim

behind the church. sorpotel and a cold beer.

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The Fisherman's Wharf4.5

Riverside Goan restaurant · Cavelossim

on the sal at mobor. the original one, since 2005.

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Fish Thali

rice, curry, fried fish, sol kadi. the goan lunch.

Kokni Kanteen4.2

Konkan restaurant · Panjim

coastal konkan thali in a converted house. get the crab.

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Vinayak Family Restaurant4.3

Goan restaurant · Assagao

the assagao thali. rawa-fried kingfish, zero fuss, closes when it runs out.

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Mother Recipes4.5

Goan thali · Benaulim

the chonak thali, washed down with a cold kokam soda. then a nap.

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Susegad Siolim4.8

Goan thali · Siolim

fish thali by st. anthony's, finished with dodol. the sweet twist.

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Bhatti Village4.4

Family-run restaurant · Nerul

backyard tables, pork roast and stuffed crab. cash.

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Mum's Kitchen4.3

Goan restaurant · Miramar

recipes collected from goan mothers. prawn balchão.

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Bakeries & Poee

poee, bebinca, pastel de nata. bread is religion.

Confeitaria 31 de Janeiro4.2

Bakery · since 1930 · Fontainhas

goa's oldest bakery. bebinca, bolinhas, and a queue at christmas.

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Mr. Baker 19224.3

Sweet shop · Panjim

dodol, bebinca, doce. the goan sweet counter, opposite the garden.

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Padaria Prazeres4.7

Modern bakery · Caranzalem

sourdough poee and pastel de nata. go before 10.

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Baba au Rhum4.4

French bakery · Anjuna

croissants under the trees. the anjuna morning.

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Baba au Rhum, Morjim4.3

French bakery & stay · Morjim

the morjim one, at malekarwada. same croissants, fewer people.

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The poder

Bread on a cycle · Every village

6am. listen for the horn. hot poee in a paper bag.

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Jude's Goan Bakes4.4

Home bakery · Colva

family bakery on the colva-benaulim road. bebinca, dodol, cakes to order.

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Cafés

slow coffee under slower fans.

Bombay Coffee Roasters4.1

Coffee shop · Panjim

specialty coffee in a fontainhas house. quiet by 8.

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Café Bodega4.3

Art centre café · Altinho

courtyard café at sunaparanta. tiled, calm, cheap.

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Saraya4.3

Eco art café · Sangolda

pizza, ceramics, a garden. stay too long.

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Carpe Diem4.4

Art gallery café · Majorda

gallery, ceramics studio and a café in one majorda house.

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SHO4.8

Specialty coffee · Mandrem

mandrem's living room. coffee, cake, everyone on a laptop.

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Café Nu4.6

Brunch café · Mandrem

brunch a minute from ashwem sand. go before the sun gets serious.

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Himalayan Cafe4.4

Momos & thukpa · Morjim

nepali kitchen on the morjim road. cheap, fast, open late.

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Tin Tin in Tibet4.8

Tibetan café · Anjuna

mazal waddo. the khote momos are the reason.

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Royal Enfield Garage Cafe4.6

Bikers' café · Arpora

on the calangute-baga road. bikes on the wall, coffee, test rides.

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Greenr Cafe4.7

Plant-based café · Panjim

rua de ourém. vegan, californian, calm. also in assagao.

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Fedora's Cafe4.9

Garden bakery café · Majorda

best cookies and coffee in the south. sourdough and bagels too.

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Mon Petit Frère4.5

All-day breakfast café · Colva

by colva church. the fried chicken burger, no argument.

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Conchi's cafe4.7

Neighbourhood café · Vanelim

on the colva-benaulim road. small, cosy, all day.

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Coze Cafe4.9

Waffles & shakes · Margao

pajifond. margao's after-college corner.

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O Abraço cafe4.5

Portuguese-style café · Margao

tiny door, big room. the best coffee menu in south goa.

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Ceskaz Deli Cafe4.5

Deli & bakery café · Margao

pajifond, by the garden. come for the croissants — flaky, buttery, gone by noon.

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Chai & Snacks

cutting chai, mirchi pav, bun maska. the 5pm stop.

Harman Chahawala

Chai counter · Across Goa

multiple outlets — panjim, margao, vasco. the link searches them all.

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Cafe Om Sai and Food Corner5.0

Chai & snacks · Siolim

siolim market, by st. anthony's. best chai and mirchi pav.

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Dinner Out

a table, a long evening, someone else doing the washing up.

The Camron Restaurant & Bar4.5

Goan & tandoor · Majorda

opposite alila diwa. must try: the goan sausage naan.

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The Red Ginger4.6

Pan-Asian · Colva

at skylark, colva. dim sum, thai curries, a proper night out.

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Feni & Bars

cashew feni, urrak in april, no rush.

Joseph Bar4.2

Tiny bar · Fontainhas

standing outside on the lane. feni cocktails, no signage.

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Antonio @ 314.4

Bar & small plates · Fontainhas

urrak in season, chorizo the rest of the year.

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Tesouro4.3

Cocktail bar · Colva

south goa's serious cocktail bar. dress up a little.

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For The Record4.5

Vinyl bar · Panjim

records, cocktails, no dance floor. talk to the bartender.

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AntiSocial3.8

Live music bar · Morjim

morjim's late one. gigs, cocktails, a mumbai crowd.

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Cazulo Feni Distillery4.8

Distillery · Cuelim

feni tasting at a working distillery. book the tour.

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Beach Shacks

feet in sand, fish on the table.

Zeebop by the Sea4.5

Beach shack · Utorda

feet in sand, fish thali, cold beer. south goa done right.

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Britto's4.3

Beach shack · Baga

the OG shack since the 60s. go for lunch, not the night.

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Dropadi4.0

Beach shack · Palolem

palolem's steady one. rawa prawns and a hammock.

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Pousada by the Beach4.4

Goan shack · Candolim

old-school prawn curry rice by the sand.

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La Plage4.5

French · on the sand · Ashwem

french on ashwem sand since forever. the chocolate thali.

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Bora Bora4.1

Beach club · Morjim

morjim's beach club. sunset set, then dinner in the sand.

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Riverside4.3

Creekside restaurant · Mandrem

where the mandrem creek meets the sea. breakfast on the deck.

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Sunsets & Date Plans

forts, ferries, and a sky that does the talking.

Chapora Fort4.2

Fort · sunset · Vagator

the dil chahta hai fort. go for the sunset, stay for the wind.

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Cabo de Rama4.4

Clifftop fort · Canacona

almost empty, sea on three sides. bring water.

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Reis Magos Fort4.4

Restored fort · Verem

across the river from panjim. gallery inside, sunset outside.

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Divar Island4.5

Ferry + cycle · Divar

ferry over, cycle around, church on the hill, no shops.

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Miramar to Dona Paula4.1

Evening walk · Panjim

the bay walk. ice cream at the jetty end.

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Three Kings Chapel4.3

Hilltop chapel · 1599 · Cansaulim

climb cuelim hill for a 360° sunset. gates shut at 6.

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Betul Lighthouse4.4

Lighthouse · viewpoint · Betul

up above the sal river mouth. the whole coast from one hillock.

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Markets

go early. haggle a little.

Mapusa Friday Market3.9

Weekly market · Mapusa

chorizo, spices, cashew, bebinca. go before 10.

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Anjuna Flea Market3.9

Wednesday market · Anjuna

since the hippie days. haggle, then coffee.

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Panjim Fish Market3.9

Fish market · Panjim

6am. buy the kingfish, get it fried next door.

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Margao Municipal Market4.1

Town market · Margao

the real south goa market. pickles, spice, chatter.

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Saturday Night Market3.8

Night market · Arpora

food stalls and live music. seasonal, nov to april.

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Bookshops & Reading

shelves worth losing an afternoon in.

Asro Earth Cafe & Book Club4.7

Café · silent book club · Porvorim

alto porvorim. bring a book; sunday is the silent read.

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The Dogears Bookshop4.6

Independent bookshop · Margao

rua bernardo da costa. books on goa, and the best children's shelf.

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Heritage & Latin Quarter

portuguese lanes, 400-year-old churches, museums nobody visits.

Fontainhas walk4.1

Latin quarter · Panjim

painted portuguese-era lanes. dawn or dusk, never noon.

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Basilica of Bom Jesus4.5

Church · 1605 · Old Goa

st. francis xavier's relics. go early.

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Sé Cathedral4.5

Cathedral · Old Goa

asia's largest church and the golden bell.

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Museum of Goa (MOG)4.1

Contemporary art · Pilerne

contemporary goan art in a warehouse.

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Houses of Goa4.2

Museum · Porvorim

a ship-shaped museum about goan houses.

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Goa Chitra4.3

Ethnographic museum · Benaulim

4000 farming tools and a way of life.

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Palácio do Deão4.4

1787 mansion · Quepem

lunch in the garden by reservation. the deacon's house.

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Figueiredo Mansion4.5

Heritage house · Loutolim

400 years of one family. you can stay over.

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Things to Do

beyond the beach. trek, paddle, camp, swim.

Dudhsagar Falls trek4.6

Waterfall trek · Mollem

monsoon trek from kulem along the tracks. jeep in season.

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Sai Island and Farm4.7

Private island · activities · Tuye

kayak, raft, camp and eat on a private island up the river.

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Canoeing Adventures5.0

Canoe & kayak tours · Siolim

paddle the chapora backwaters from siolim. sunrise or sunset.

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Kayaking, Sal backwaters4.2

Kayaking · Nuvem

mangroves, kingfishers, a sunrise paddle. 2 hours.

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Cola beach kayaking4.6

Kayaking · lagoon · Canacona

paddle the freshwater lagoon where it meets the sea.

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Chorao mangroves3.8

Kayaking · birds · Chorao

salim ali bird sanctuary by kayak at dawn.

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Netravali bubble lake4.3

Hike + swim · Netravali

hike in, swim under savari waterfall, hike out.

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Camping at Cola4.6

Beach camping · Canacona

tents on the lagoon. boat to butterfly beach at 7.

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Keri camping & Tiracol hike4.6

Camping + hike · Querim

camp at the top of goa, then walk the headland to tiracol fort.

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Vaayu4.5

Surf & kite school · Mandrem

boards, lessons and a café where the creek meets the sea.

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Tambdi Surla4.8

12th-c. temple + trek · Mollem

kadamba temple deep in the forest. waterfall trek nearby.

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Harvalem caves & falls4.3

Rock-cut caves · Sanquelim

caves, a small waterfall, nobody there.

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Udear Springs4.1

Natural spring · swim · Verna

spring-fed pool past ambulor lake. best right after the monsoon.

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Bat Island snorkelling4.1

Snorkelling · Bogmalo

boat from bogmalo. coral, fish, an hour.

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Sonsogor peak4.2

Hike · highest point · Sattari

goa's highest point. start before dawn, back by 10.

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Cotigao watchtower4.1

Wildlife sanctuary · Canacona

treetop watchtower at dawn. bison if you're lucky.

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